Shaftings

•26 October 2009 • 3 Comments

I am now in Argentina and so far it’s been bloody brilliant. Let me clear a small backlog of Bolivia-related things and then I’ll try and get something together about that.

I mostly wrote this post – on how lucky I was to not have gotten shafted – a few days before leaving my coats on a bar stool in a club in La Paz called Ttecos (pronounced tuh-techos) and going dancing.

As Crystalfox knows, for it is an area in which we have disagreed in the past, I am a fan of cloakrooms and if one is available I will generally use it. Unfortunately on this occasion I failed to notice the existence of a cloakroom and therefore thought it must be the kind of place people left their coats lying around (despite the fact that there probably weren’t any unattended coats left lying around).

A coat and a jacket left on a bar stool, just fifteen minutes of dancing and then no coats to be seen.

Shafted. Continue reading ‘Shaftings’

I was watching CNN last night

•12 October 2009 • Leave a Comment

The reason being that my not-quite-a-hotel room has a television in it, but it doesn’t have a working remote control and I figure it’s better to have a channel that’s constantly of slight interest, than it is to have to keep getting off my arse to change the channel when something good ends and Sexo y La Cuidad comes on in its place. As it seems to quite a bit [*].

On CNN there was a piece about the new Formula 1 track in Abu Dhabi. If, like me, you didn’t know, there’s a new Formula 1 track and it is in Abu Dhabi.

Anyway, some arab dude was giving a tour of its features and among them is a long straight section, the longest straight of any formula one track in the world, and over they’ve built, wait for it, a hotel. So you can stay in the hotel and watch the F1 cars go by underneath. For a couple of hours per year when the Grand Prix is on. The rest of the time, I guess it’s a bit like staying in an air-conditioned motorway overpass.

So in summary we have an opportunity to waste a fuckload of oil, the somethingest something in the world (that nobody gives a fuck about), and a great big eyesore of a hotel.

I’m thinking the sooner these utterly imagination and culture-deprived cunts run out of oil and they have to go back to sucking camels’ dicks in the desert, the better.

[*] I did end up watching part of an episode where Carrie finds out that “Mr. Big” has a new girlfriend who is younger and prettier and generally better in every way than her. Ha ha ha. I do like the parts where really embarrassing stuff happens to Carrie. They should produce a compilation of just those.

Product sponsorship, Bolivia style

•12 October 2009 • Leave a Comment

Product sponsorship bolivia style

Eight things I don’t like about Bolivia

•10 October 2009 • 2 Comments

I was asked this question by one of Tonio’s friends in the context of whether I would consider living here (which I certainly would, having done more or less that for three months). Here is what I came up with. The Spanish version was obviously considerably more concise and diplomatic.

At some point when I get near a decent internet connection I will post several hundred photos of something I liked very much about Bolivia (Uyuni) to balance things out a bit. Continue reading ‘Eight things I don’t like about Bolivia’

Hipsters

•5 October 2009 • 3 Comments

Last weekend I went to a clothes market in Cochabamba, where I picked up a much-needed second pair of jeans for 30 Bs -new. I don’t know if they’re genuine Wrangler jeans or not but I certainly can’t see anything wrong with them and besides, worrying if your jeans are genuine Wranglers or not is like worrying if your Hyundai car is a genuine Hyundai or not. Nobody is likely to notice or care. [1]

I used to go to charity shops the odd time in Hackney (such as Dalston Oxfam, made famous by this guy) but usually ended up buying books or CDs rather than clothes. The men’s clothes always seemed biased towards polyester suits and plain long-sleeved t-shirts from Primark and other such boring nastiness. I don’t ever remember seeing anything as hip as, say, a t-shirt from the Soul 2 Soul 1992 “Back 2 Life” World Tour. If they had one, which they hopefully did.

Anyway, the real bargains in this market were not the jeans but the t-shirts. One hour spent browsing through huge stacks of them explained an entire decade’s worth of jokes about hipsters from “The Onion”.

The reason is that the stalls in this market source their stock from American charity shops. The stuff that doesn’t sell in the states periodically gets dumped into containers and shipped off to Bolivia where these people buy it by the kilo for half nothing.

Where the hipster aspect comes in is that it seems the majority of the stuff that the United Statesians don’t want to buy is the stuff that nobody ever paid money for in the first place. I am talking about t-shirts that were produced as corporate gifts, printed up for one-off events, given to members of sporting teams, college fraternities, clubs, societies and so forth. If Obama hadn’t got elected, I imagine Bolivia would be seeing a lot of “Yes We Can! Team Obama 2008″ t-shirts about now. [2]

There are only two sorts of people who WOULD want to pay money for these t-shirts:

a) Hipsters

b) People who don’t speak a lot of English

I didn’t realise how incredibly hipster-friendly the design and content of most of these t-shirts actually are. It is almost like the people creating them wanted to ensure they would live on after they had served their original purpose by designing in a healthy dose of knowing irony. Imagine this sort of thing:

Cooter Falls Junior School

Little League Softball Team

or

Marv & Nancy’s 4th July Celebrations 2008 (<— in comic sans font)

<clipart picture of fireworks>

or

<Enron logo>

ENRON

or

<three greek letters>

and on the back

<some kind of fratboy/girl in-joke>

Of course the latter wouldn’t qualify as hip in the USA due to the likelihood of people thinking you were actually in said fraternity and therefore a huge tool. But there are plenty of them to choose from.

Now I’m no hipster myself but at 8Bs and 12Bs there were a couple of these I just had to pick up. Unfortunately as luck would have it, they’re both green in colour, meaning that I now have six t-shirts with me and three of them are darkish green. No matter. I have photographed them front (on the left) and back (on the right).

a no-brainer

a no-brainer

The Brain Injury Assocation of Pennsylvania one is actually slightly too small for me (but I shall wear it nonetheless, it will encourage me to eat less and remind me not to injure my brain) and I purchased it mainly for Maris’s amusement. Notice how quickly the t-shirt has made its way here, and also the astonishing bad taste (for politically correct America) of the joke on the back.

The second one, I bought because I genuinely think it’s a really cool t-shirt, BUT, I have a feeling it might not be what it claims to be: namely a t-shirt advertising or commemorating some kind of sixties-style freak-out in Tallahassee, FL.

The hipsters have some word for this (I think it may be “vintage” but I’m not sure) to signify that the garment in question, say one of those gas station attendant short-sleeved shirts with a name embroidered on it, was worn by an actual guy called Bob who was an actual gas station attendant, as opposed to having been mass produced and sold in a shop after it became cool to wear such things.

I have no reason to think this other than the fact that the event in question took place in 1988, a long time for a t-shirt to survive, and it seems too good of a find. Anyway, not being a hipster, I could care less (as they say in the USA when they want to imply they couldn’t care less).

Attached are a couple of camera phone pictures I managed to get of some other LOLworthy t-shirts in the market. In case you’re wondering how I could pass up the one on the left, it was only because it was large enough to fit two of me into, having previously belonged to some Dorito-filled United Statesian.

Image077Image078

Anyway, if this is the stuff that proved so unsellable it had to be bundled off to Bolivia, I’d love to see the amazing things one must encounter in a normal American thrift store. Maris, since you shop in thrift stores perhaps you could keep an eye out for better examples of the genre and maybe even discreetly photograph a hipster in his or her natural environment for me.

Finally, speaking of t-shirts, last night I saw anothert-shirt on a theme previously mentioned. It translated as something like

What are all these children doing here

and why are they calling me daddy?

If it was in English I’d have hazarded a guess as to its origin but no. The wearer of this t-shirt knew exactly what he was buying. Like Tonio, I’d say he is not as inundated with casual sex (with your mother, or anyone else) as he may like to imply.

[1] Remember that period in the nineties when everyone was briefly really into “Pepe” jeans? That was funny. Where are you now, Pepe Jeans?

[2] Although actually, I didn’t notice any John McCain-related t-shirts so maybe not. Perhaps even the t-shirts from the losing team would be considered of sufficient historical relevance to hang on to. Or perhaps they all ended up in the one container and somewhere else in Bolivia there is a stall that sells nothing but McCain and Obama t-shirts.

Feliz Aniversario

•29 September 2009 • 5 Comments

This will only be of real interest to Crystalfox, although I think it’s funny enough to be of at least mild interest to anyone bothered to read it. I have cautiously tagged it booooring nonetheless.

Around this time ten years ago fate brought myself, Crystalfox and six other less intelligent and interesting people together in a house in the University of Limerick’s charming pastel-coloured student accommodation, Kilmurry Village.

When Crystalfox first met me, he thought I was English. When I first met him, I thought he was a cunt. Although I did end up living in England and he did end up being acting like a cunt on a fair few occasions, we were nonetheless both proven wrong.

In our house in Kilmurry Village and in other houses for the subsequent years of university, we embarked on all manner of nerdy, drug and alcohol-fuelled adventures. For two people who didn’t actually do a lot of university-related work, we spent a great deal of time in the library and labs, downloading music, reading about cricket and generally having the craic.

Neither of us had many friends in our own courses and we were not very fond of lecture attendance. At times I attended more of Crystalfox’s lectures (to keep him company, and because they were more interesting) than I did of my own.

My social skills were such that I couldn’t have had it any other way and nowadays I realise I wouldn’t have had it any other way. It wasn’t my imagination, all those other people in my course really were a bunch of fucking phooooools.

To celebrate our anniversary here is a selection of correspondence unearthed from an old hard disk that I took a copy of before going on holibobs, wrongly figuring I’d have time to sort through it all here. Some of the mails quoted date from 1999 and 2000 but the majority are from second, third and fourth year.

Aside from the parts I have posted which are those I consider to have the most general appeal, there were a few funny surprises in the correspondence. For instance, how extensively we used to discuss cocaine despite neither of us having the money to actually buy much of it, and Crystalfox’s almost sexual love of that lab upstairs in the Schumann building, which he sings the repeatedly sings the praises of for no apparent reason.

I haven’t sought his permission to post this but I would point out that the only person reading this that has actually met Crystalfox is Crystalfox’s girlfriend [*], and Crystalfox isn’t the kind of guy to go keeping things secret from his girlfriend. When I started this he insisted on anonymity and the price he pays for anonymity is me getting to post whatever I like about him.

¡Feliz Aniversario, phool!

[*] Apart from a certain highly successful corporate lawyer, who has met Crystalfox on more than one occasion but unfortunately doesn’t remember. Unfortunate because one of the occasions was so hilarious we still talk about it from time to time.

ɐı1ɐɹʇsnɐ noʎ ǝq oʇ sʞɔns ɐɥɐɥɐɥɐɥɐ

•25 September 2009 • Leave a Comment

Now obviously I’m not normally one to take pleasure in the misfortune of others, but I’m willing to make an exception when the others are of Australian nationality, and the misfortune is some kind of comic genius freak natural occurrence.

Such as, say, a giant cloud of dust that blows in from the outback, turning the Sydney sky red for the day and, well, coating everything in dust. Now short of a plague of cock-eating locusts descending on Tel Aviv, you can’t ask for much better than that.

Tanya Ferguson described the dust storm as the weirdest thing she has ever seen in her life.

“It was like being on Mars,” she told the BBC, “I haven’t been there, obviously, but I imagine that’s what the sky would look like.”

Speaking of Aussies, here’s a conversation that took place on the salt flats in Uyuni.

<Everybody standing on the middle of a massive expanse of white salt>

Aussie 1: “Oi mean, hew did it git here?”
Aussie 2: “Oi doin’t thenk innybuddy rilly noise”
Me: “It was a saltwater lake that evaporated thousands of years ago”

The point of this story is not how clever I am (although I am very clever), it is how fucking stupid Aussies are.

Poppy

•21 September 2009 • Leave a Comment

The other day Tonio’s sister, the one who’s a bitch, was interrogating me about why I like dogs so much. I appear to like dogs so much because I spend a lot of time in the yard playing with Tonio’s dog, a big St. Bernard called Polly.

I think since one of the other sisters had previously asked me whether I liked children (my reply was “some children”),  the subtext of the question might have been why I wasn’t spending this time playing with her two-year-old daughter instead.

She asked if I had any dogs myself and, as has a habit of happening still, I started to get a bit teary at the thought of my dear departed Poppy. You’d think this would have made her stop being a bitch but it didn’t.

It reminded me that since I was in a bad mood and thinking about my doggy anyway, I might as well try and finish off this post about Poppy which I started just after she died (April 2009, shortly before leaving for South America) but couldn’t quite bring myself to finish at the time or a few occasions since.

Poppy strayed onto our farm five years ago, just weeks after the death of our previous dog, Fiscus. We suspected someone had dumped her deliberately as she was just a puppy at the time. My parents quickly grew fond of her and began to feed her. They asked around the neighbours if anyone was missing a dog but nobody was [1] and so the de facto adoption was complete.

We’ve never been into training dogs to actually do useful things on the farm. The main useful job a dog could do would be retrieving cows and that would involve training the dog to open and close gates and electric fences, which would be quite a feat.

If a dog wasn’t an active hindrance to work getting done, that was generally good enough. If the dog could bark to alert us to the arrival of visitors or the escaping of animals, that was a bonus. This Poppy could manage without any problems.

In other ways she was hilariously unsuited to her role as a farm dog. She would observe mice and rats from a safe distance with a look of puzzlement and wonder on her face.

If there was commotion of some kind, usually involving a cow in a place where a cow shouldn’t be, she would come running over with her tail wagging and, again from a safe distance, whimper sympathetically but nothing more. The more serious the commotion, the louder the whimpering.

She was a very friendly and quiet dog, but had some issues with jealousy [2] that prevented her from getting on too well with other animals. In the milking parlour she would stand by the exit to the collecting yard and growl and snap at the cows if they tried to go the wrong way. Or indeed, if they tried to go the right way.

When I tried to bottle-feed the calves, or even moreso if I tried to rub them down, Poppy would hover nearby, snapping at their legs and tails until she was dispatched from the area with a rubber boot to the backside.

I think it was just over a year after her arrival on the farm, after my parents had wrongly been advised by the vet that there was no hurry in having her neutered, that Poppy had a son. My mother named him Leroy after the character in Alan Parker’s “Fame”, which I thoroughly approved of.

We’re not sure who Leroy’s father is but whoever he was, he wasn’t much of a looker. Leroy, with his mottled black and brown face, was deemed the nicest-looking of a very ugly litter [3].

Poppy was very much the brains of the new two-dog operation, with Leroy rarely seen to do anything that Poppy wasn’t already doing first. It was impossible to give any attention to Poppy if Leroy was in the vicinity without him bounding over to put himself in the way.

When Cool Vinny did certain jobs, such as filling sacks of animal feed, the dogs would always try to help. This led him to shut them out of the shed until he was finished but reward them at the end with a flurry of attention which he called “doggy time”. “Doggy time” involved dancing with Poppy and Leroy, by holding their front paws, while singing the doggy time song. I got involved too sometimes.

Poppy was mostly responsible for the rapid and almost terminal decline in the cat population on the farm. We used to have over a dozen at one point [4] whereas now we have just our Púiscín.  Some of the adult cats Poppy drove away. Along with this, she developed a habit of sniffing out the cats’ nesting spots, picking up their kittens and dropping them off in different places.

If not found by their mothers they would perish from cold or hunger. Sometimes, more gruesomely, from the effects of being held too forcefully in Poppy’s jaws in the first place.

She had a rivalry with Púiscín that, to someone unaware of the above, would probably seem quite funny. Púiscín was rescued by my mother as a kitten from the last ever kitten nest, located on top of a straw bale where it was only a matter of time before Poppy would have found it.

Due to the imminent danger, she became our first ever totally indoor cat, which she remains today. However for twenty minutes or so each day after the morning milking, both Poppy and Púiscín were fed together in the porch where they were free to congregate under my mother’s supervision.

In Púiscín’s presence, Poppy would tremble with rage and make a special, low growling sound that seemed to be reserved solely for this purpose. Púiscín, meanwhile, would obliviously nuzzle against Poppy’s legs and lick her face, probably pleased to have some animal company.

There is a photo taken by my brother (a copy of which I believe is now in our living room) of me, Poppy and Leroy in the yard, with Púiscín visible in the background, looking on from behind the safety of the porch door.

Poppy’s absence from two consecutive milkings was the main thing that prompted us something might be wrong. It was unlike her to stray far from the action or to miss feeding time.

My mother and I searched around the house and sheds and eventually found her lying under one of the shrubs in the garden, taking unusually shallow and rapid breaths.

After the milking, we took her to the vet. It was the first time she had ever been in the car and she sat on my knee wrapped up in a blanket. She seemed to quite enjoy it.

The vet was quite open about not having any definite idea of what might be wrong. He prescribed antibiotics and advised us to return the next day if things hadn’t improved. By nighttime we thought things had but it was probably just wishful thinking.

The next morning Poppy was still breathing abnormally and we returned her to the vet’s, this time for x-rays to be taken and a more extensive examination to be conducted. For this we were told we should leave her and collect her later. The vet would phone to let us know how things went.

At dinnertime the phone rang and my mother went into the living room to answer it. It was the vet. My mother didn’t say much and I could tell she was receiving a lengthy explanation of something.

When my mother came back into the kitchen she was very upset and told us that the x-ray showed that poppy had a tumour of some kind that was pressing against her heart and that this was causing the rapid breathing. In the vet’s opinion [5] the tumour was inoperable and the best thing to do was to have Poppy put down. We could return this evening to have this done.

Nobody was expecting this and we all found ourselves shocked and upset about the suddenness of it. The only other time in my life I can remember seeing both my parents as upset about something, in fact in remarkably similar circumstances, is in 2003 when a district vet from the Dept. of Agriculture showed up unnnounced while we were having lunch to tell my father that one of our animals had BSE.

We went to the vet’s once more and were brought into a room where a few dazed-looking dogs lay in large cages. I had brought my camera as I wanted to get one last photo of Poppy – I wish I had taken more over the years – but when I saw her I decided not to.

It hadn’t crossed my mind that there was any reason why she should be looking any different to when I’d last seen her, but she did. I forgot that dogs had to be sedated to be given an x-ray and Poppy was still recovering from the effects of this sedation.

She was not in a cage, but lay on a blanket on the ground in the corner of the room. She had two patches shaved on her legs, had a drip still attached and her eyes were droopy and without their usual sparkle. She didn’t really seem like Poppy to me and I couldn’t say for sure if she recognised us.

The vet thankfully showed a bit more sensitivity than he generally did in his bovine work and gave us a few minutes alone to say goodbye. I must say, I found this very difficult, partly because it seemed like such an utterly shitty place for Poppy to end her short life and partly because of seeing how upset my mother was.

She had spent far more time with Poppy than I had (due to my time in England) and is every bit as much of an animal-lover as me, but in the more understated and unsentimental way that results from a career in farming.

I told the vet we were ready and he explained he was to put Poppy down by giving her an overdose of the same type of sedative as she had been given earlier and that she wouldn’t feel any pain. My mother didn’t want to look and said she would wait outside.

I held Poppy in my arms and my father stood over her as the vet gave her the overdose of barbiturates. As they quickly took effect, she gasped and her leg muscles spasmed for a moment. The vet disconnected the drip and gave me a pink blanket to wrap her in. We carried her out to the car and put her in the boot.

We drove home on the motorway in silence then had dinner and did the milking.

Poppy would always “help” with the milking and so her absence was especially noticeable. The cutest thing Poppy used to do was in the milking parlour, which contains a long pit about a metre deep. If someone stood in the pit next to the steps leading up to ground level while Poppy was nearby, she would run around and, taking advantage of the perfect difference in height, bury her head in their armpit.

Because Leroy didn’t like to be left out, he would sometimes come running over and stick his head under the other arm. You would then be left holding two nuzzling dogs in self-inflicted headlocks. This was something I had especially intended to get a photograph of before I left but I never thought there was any hurry. Like a lot of other things, Leroy no longer does it now that he doesn’t have Poppy to take the lead.

The next day, a clear and sunny day, my father and I took her to Horseleap, where we have a large field with very soft, sandy soil that and also happens to have the prettiest view of the flat midlands countryside.

In the middle of the field we quickly dug her a deep grave, beyond the reach of ploughs and rabbits. Pat took her out of the boot of the car. Her mouth was closed and her eyes almost closed as we laid her to rest. She looked just like she did when she used to lie outstretched in the yard, sunbathing.

Pat and I stood over her for a minute, neither of us wanting to throw the first shovel of soil on top of her.

Minutes later, the sod was placed back on top of the grave and we went home.

The surprising thing I have learnt from this is that I should find myself more upset about the unexpected death of a dearly beloved dog than I could imagine getting about some of the humans in my life whose deaths, to be frank, we have been anticipating for years now.

It is also surprising how many people react to the news that my dear Poppy has died in the same way as I might expect them to if I told them that, say, I had my wallet stolen.

The explanation for both of these things is of course that it’s a lot easier for a human to be an asshole than it is for a dog.

[1] Actually one of our neighbours was missing a dog, but it turned out not to be Poppy. Also, in May 2009, a few weeks after the events describedabove, another dog showed up unannounced and ended up moving in. This one, my parents found out, belonged to an old man who lived down the road who had recently died. I have not met her yet due to being in South America. This is the third time we have acquired a dog in this way.

[2] You may be thinking this is my unqualified armchair dog psychology, but it is in fact someone else’s fully qualified dog psychology. I have a relevant newspaper clipping.

[3] I didn’t ask what happened to the others but I think I know a Bruce Springsteen song that would explain it.

[4] They came for the free milk, they stayed for the lax attitude towards spaying.

[5] I should mention I always considered this vet (the owner of the practice, albeit not the one personally dealing with Poppy in this case) to be an asshole and on occasions begged my parents to get a different one. Why anyone who seems to hate animals so much should choose a career as a vet I don’t know.

NeilanWatch

•19 September 2009 • Leave a Comment

Thanks to Jane for the tip.

Drama at courthouse as judge is shot in the face

“Comedy drama”, more specifically.

Cochabamba – Hot fudge sundaes and gay times in the woods

•18 September 2009 • 3 Comments

Go somewhere new -> Wait until people in new place start to piss me off -> Write up results -> Repeat

I am currently in a place called Cochabamba which is known in Bolivia as the city of eternal spring. I thought the climate suited me down to the ground but in the last few days it’s after getting hot. Thirty-something degrees today, which nearly killed me. I am reconsidering my plans to go to Santa Cruz, the only other big city I haven’t been to, which is normally about ten degrees hotter.

Apparently the Santa Cruz girls put out a bit more too but ohhhh, you wouldn’t want to marry a Santa Cruz girl, oh no, they wouldn’t be much good at cooking and washing and looking after children. Not like a Cochabamba girl.

Seriously, I got this same piece of advice from a taxi driver in La Paz (when I told him I was coming here), another taxi driver here and several members of my host’s family, although they weren’t as explicit about the “Santa Cruz girls put out” part. The Cochabamba taxi driver also seemed very interested in what Irish girls were like. I didn’t have any photos on me but fortunately there happened to be a bus in front of us at the time on which to base a suitable analogy, ho ho.

In La Paz I had been led to believe Cochabamba was a bit of a one horse city but it is actually a very nice, relaxed, interesting sort of place. It is also home to some of the best electronic music I’ve heard in South America so far. Continue reading ‘Cochabamba – Hot fudge sundaes and gay times in the woods’